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A three-and-a-half-hour Valencian paella class in Russafa that starts with the market shop and ends at the flat pan and the sangría jug, with an honest verdict on whether it beats just eating the real thing.

The Mercado Central trades Monday to Saturday from half past seven and dies at three. Here is how to use the first hour, and what to do with the rest of the day around it.

La Lonja de la Seda in October 2026: what the trading floor actually looks like, the right hour to walk in, and the wine bars and market counters worth building a morning around.
























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